We left Mackay marina at first light for the long haul to Middle Percy Island.
Mackay Marina at dawn
Seas were flat and no wind so we had to motor sail the whole way. The ocean was full of the algal bloom and it made for glassy conditions, but the smell of the rotting algae was unbearable in some areas.
A feature of the day were the schools of white bait all across the ocean. Everywhere you looked there were fish jumping to avoid the pelagic predators below.
We trawled lines through them at first with no success. They were only intent on gorging themselves with bait fish. The artificial tempters that I had so much success with did not work.
I changed lures to smaller ones that looked like a bait fish.
Immediate success with a nice spotted mackerel and then followed up with a nice spanish mackerel just before Middle Percy Island. Enough fish for at least 4 meals with Splash over the coming days.
I had some fish to fillet so Peter from Splash put his dinghy in the water so we could all visit the famous A Frame called the "Percy Hilton"
the A Frame called "Percy Hilton" at West Beach Middle Percy
HMAS Australia 1950
We had a good look around and found a number of yachts that I have known and travelled with over the years. I sailed on a yacht called "Flying Turtle" to the Whitsundays in 2001 and we left our name plate but could not find it this time.
Leaving Billabong's Plaque
We left our name plate on the 2nd floor of the Percy Hilton so all could see it when they venture up the stairs.
Billabong's plaque deposited along with the 5000 plus others
We had drinks on the beach and watched the sun go down and it was back to the yachts for dinner. - Pan fried spotted mackerel with bok choy. It was magnificent.
4th November Middle Percy Island to Pearl Bay 53 nm
Another early start to get on the water to make our way south as the weather allows. We are expecting a southerly change tomorrow so we figured we needed a good SE anchorage to hang out for a day. Pearl Bay is one of the prettiest anchorages on the coast in the right conditions.
It was a lovely passage with light winds early and then a slight sea breeze in the afternoon which enabled us to sail for the last 4 hours.
Again the ocean was alive with fish life. I was not trying real hard as we had so much fish on board. I was trying for a yellow fin tuna but instead caught a mackerel tuna which we kept for some sashimi and the rest for bait.
We arrived in Pearl bay and there was no swell so we anchored and launched our dinghy as we were having dinner on Splash. We supplied the fish and Chris cooked up a delightful spaghetti with peas, lime and fish. Very tasty.
Billabong anchored peacefully in another spectacular sunset
5th November Pearl Bay to Port Clinton 8nm
We woke in the early hours of the morning when the southerly change came in. The wind kept us side on to the swell and we rolled very wildly. It was impossible to sleep. At first light we got up and had a cup of tea in the cockpit and made a decision we had to up anchor and go around to Port Clinton which is better protected from the swell.
It was sad to leave such a pretty spot as I wanted to spend the day there and explore the beaches. We did not have time on the way up north and we missed it again on the way back.
We motored around the headland to Port Clinton in very lumpy conditions and sought shelter from the waves and swell inside.
After a late breakfast we had a sleep and woke at 3pm.
Today is a lazy day. No fishing, just reading and sleeping.
In the afternoon we heard on the VHF radio of another boat sinking. This was at Island Head Creek just 10nm from where we were. They sank at 5am this morning when their 16m shark cat hit a rocky outcrop. Two adults and two children were rescued by helicopter. They bought the boat 2 days ago and they were a West Australian family. This is the second boat to sink in a week around us. A sailing cat called Felix hit a submerged object off Middle Percy Island and sunk last Saturday. Hope it is not a bad omen for us.
We had drinks on Splash and Chris cooked another great dish. Fish pie.
We are in a flat anchorage and looking forward to a good sleep. We make for Great Kepple Island tomorrow.
6th November Port Clinton to Great Kepple Island
We only have 45nm to go to Great Kepple Island so we did not require an early start.
After breakfast we weighed anchor at around 9am and pulled the mainsail up. With a run out tide and the wind from the east the entrance to Port Clinton will be lumpy. It sure was. We took our time getting out and once we cleared the headland the seas settled down and we had a great sail all the way. The wind was about 12 knots from the east and we reached down the coast. The sea was alive we bait fish and sea birds everywhere. I got bored so I put the line out with some different lures and bingo with in 15 minutes we had a spotted mackerel. Oh well saves taking anything out of the freezer.
Tamara said it was her turn to cook a Russian fish pie so we had about one and a half kilos of fish to go in it.
We arrived at Great Kepple earlier than expected as we had a great run and the current was in our favour.
The water is clear and so we had a swim and were ready for 5pm drinks.
Tamara cooked dinner and Splash came over for the Russian fish pie. And true to Russian form, there was too much food to eat.
That was another great day to be on the water. Good wind, good fish, good company and a bright sunny day.
I call those profitable days. The wind is free, I used very little diesel and caught dinner for 4 people. It does not get any better!!
7th and 8th November Great Keple Island to Lady Musgrave Reef 97nm
We spent the first part of the day ashore on the Island having a look at what used to be a great holiday destination for many Australians and overseas back packers.
The great shark on Great Kepple Island
The resort is now closed and all fenced up and while there are many visitors from the mainland in commercial and private craft all the businesses on the island are struggling. The high aussie dollar has made these resorts unprofitable. A developer has purchased the resort and wants to turn it into another Hamilton Island type destination with a marina and 5 star accommodation and upgrade the air strip for domestic flights. Speaking with one of the shop owners everyone is against it so I doubt it will proceed.
Resort beach at Great Kepple
Back to the yachts for lunch and a afternoon sleep in preparation of our long overnight sail to Lady Musgrave. We try to avoid overnight sails but this one was a necessity as there is no where with relative safety to stay on the way. We have to reach the island during the day as there is a very narrow entrance through the reef and we must have high sun to avoid hitting coral reefs. It is also best to enter the lagoon at low tide and that is 1pm on the 8th.
We left Great Kepple Island at 4pm and sailed for about 3 hours when the wind died and headed us. We then motor sailed through the night with a full moon on a sparkling sea. Murphy's Law strikes. At about 9pm our navigation lights on the bow went out. As we were in company with Splash I dropped behind them and we followed in a procession. I did not want to go on the bow and see what the problem was as I would get wet. With the steaming light on and Splash in front and a moonlit night we were no threat to navigation.
We arrived at Lady Musgrave at noon after motor sailing for 18 hours. Murphy's Law occurs regularly on yachts and today was no exception. As we approached the island the high temperature alarm on the motor went off. I immediately idled the engine but it continued so I shut it down and we sailed for the next half hour tacking up to the entrance of the lagoon.
I could not find the problem and it is is risky to sail through the entrance of the lagoon with reef so near. After sailing for a half hour we furled the head sail and kept the main up. I started the engine and good news no temperature alarm. I decided we would sail in through the passage with motor on idle in case any thing went wrong. The wind was from the east so it was a perfect angle to get into the lagoon.
Once in we sailed down to our chosen anchorage and dropped the main and used the engine to position ourselves. We had lunch and a sleep for an hour and I then set about fixing the navigation light ( which was simply a blown globe) and sorting the engine out. I could find no fault and I am a bit bewildered as to why it went off in the first place.
Any way we had found our piece of paradise and we really enjoyed sundowners at 5 o'clock.
Click on the link to see an arial view of Lady Musgrave. You can see the narrow entrance of the lagoon!!
Lady Musgrave Reef
9th and 10th November Lady Musgrave Reef
This place is special. When the weather is perfect it is a haven for boaties. However when the wind blows the lagoon offers little protection and many a yachtie has spent a miserable time anchored here waiting for the conditions to improve. We were lucky. The wind eased on the 9th and completely dropped on the 10th to zero. It was a glass out. Never have I seen water as clear as inside the lagoon. We were anchored in 8-10 meters and you could see every fish under the boat.
The waters are crystal clear
A Black Noddy Tern
sea bird guarding the egg
sea bird eggs were laid on rocks
We went ashore and walked the island. It was bird breeding season and Turtle egg laying season. We saw many birds and their nests and many Turtle tracks and big sand dug outs where they have laid their eggs. The young will hatch in Feb/Mar and take their chances in the big ocean.
We spent our time swimming, snorkelling, fishing,eating, drinking, sleeping and anything else to do with a good vacation.
It was so easy to catch fish. We ate so many and I never thought I would say it but " I am sick of filleting fish".
I am not sick of catching them though.
We were in our element. Our own paradise.
It reminds me of this song. Knee Deep - Zac Brown band featuring Jimmy Buffet
Gonna put the world away for a minute
Pretend I don't live in it
Sunshine gonna wash my blues away
Had sweet love but I lost it
She Got too close so I fought it
Now I'm lost in the world tryin to find me a better way
Wishin' I was
Knee deep in the water somewhere
got the blue sky, breeze and it don't seem fair
the only worry in the world
is the tide gonna reach my chair
Sunrise, there's a fire in the sky
never been so happy
never felt so high
and I think I might've found me my own kind of paradise
Wrote a note, said "Be back in a minute"
Bought a boat and I sailed off in it
Don't think anybody's gonna miss me anyway
Mind on a permenant vacation
The ocean is my only medication
Wishin' my condition ain't ever gonna go away
Now I'm knee deep in the water somewhere
Got the blue sky breeze blowin' wind thru my hair
Only worry in the world
is the tide gonna reach my chair
Sunrise, there's a fire in the sky
never been so happy
never felt so high
and I think I might've found me my own kind of paradise
This champagne shore watchin' over me
It's a sweet sweet life livin' by the salty sea
One day you can be as lost as me
Change your geography and maybe you might be
Knee deep in the water somewhere
got the blue sky breeze blowin' wind thru my hair
only worry in the world
is the tide gonna reach my chair
Sunrise, there's a fire in the sky
never been so happy
never felt so high
and I think I might've found me my own kind of paradise
Come on in
the waters nice
find yourself a little slice
grab a bag
pack it ligth you'll never know until you try
when you lose yourself
you find a key to paradise
It is a very happy tune if you google it you will know what i mean.
We were very lucky to experience glassy conditions which is rare for lady Musgrave reef.
It is hard to see where the sky meets the water
Glassy conditions are spectacular at coral reefs
Coral Reef
We shared some great moments with Peter and Chris on Splash. We had some great meals and some great times. 5 o'clock drinks were extra special with the sun setting behind the island.
Massive turtles everywhere in the lagoon
The turtles were doing it too!!! at Lady Musgrave Reef
We witnessed turtles "making love" which seemed very cumbersome when you are that big - but they managed. The males were having a good time as they waited in the lagoon for the females. There were some very big turtles and it takes them awhile to do it!!
11th November Lady Musgrave Reef to Port Bundaberg 56nm
The weather forecast was still very good for the next few days but we have to head south. We are akin to the migratory birds heading south for summer. While we love this place and we were blessed with a day of glassy conditions which is rare, it is time to head for home.
We made the decision in the morning we should exit the lagoon at 3.30pm and anchor outside the lagoon and make for a 3am start to Bundaberg so we arrive at lunch time and have the afternoon to get a few things done, like refuelling and washing etc. We plan to hire a car on the 13th and drive to a town called 1770. Obviously named after Cooks discovery tour of the east coast of Australia.
We exited the lagoon on schedule and when we arrived at our anchoring place (which is shown in the guide) I felt very uncomfortable about it. There was reef and coral heads everywhere which is a recipe for getting ones anchor caught. If we could not raise the anchor at 3pm we would be stuck there until the morning. Not a nice feeling to be tied to the bottom and no chance of shifting the yacht if conditions deteriorated. A few conversations took place between Splash and Billabong on the VHF radio and it was decided we should sail through the night to Bundaberg. A decision we did not like but had no choice now that we had left the lagoon.
We quickly secured the yacht for sailing and unfurled the jib and settled into the task. We were flying along at 6-7 knots under jib only and the wind steadily increased to 20 knots. It was just off a windward work which made it it reasonably comfortable in the conditions. We had a few rain squalls come through but nothing we could not handle. We were flying down the coast and arrived at the channel leads at 1pm. We entered the Burnett River and found an anchoring position and out of the main channel right near the marina and had tea and toast and went to sleep at 2pm.
It was a relief to be here after a indifferent start however we got here much sooner than expected. That means we will have a bit more time to get things done.
12th November Bundaberg
I woke up at 6am and got up to have the usual morning cup of tea in the cockpit. I was a bit tired but ok after the night sail. Where we anchored was near the marina and I could see a yacht with federal police officers and customs agents all over it. My first thought was they had come in on the Port to Port rally and they were clearing customs. When I saw them filming as well as many police officers wearing gloves I knew something else was up.
At about 10am we raised the anchor and went to the fuel dock to get some fuel and then to our allocated berths. When we got to the dock which was the same jetty as the yacht with the police all over it, we found it was a big drug bust. A young Spanish couple who had purchased the yacht in NZ and sailed in on the Port to Port rally were arrested and in possession of a large amount of drugs. The news camera crews were interviewing police officers and customs, so it will be on the news tonight. I guess we will hear more than the dock gossip which is on every ones lips at the marina and so many different stories.
Ironically the yacht is called Friday Freedom and they were arrested and detained on a Friday. Reports of 43kg of cocaine will see their freedom taken from them for a while.
Since I wrote this we have now seen television and newspaper reports that this was the 5th biggest drug bust in Australia's history. 300kg of cocaine worth an estimated $78million.
The Spanish couple and 2 other Spanish males have been charged.
Excitement - we arrived at the marina in the middle of a drug bust
We will be spending at least 2 days at the marina before heading to Fraser Island and the Great Sandy Straits to cross the Wide Bay Bar and on to Mooloolaba. We will hire a car and do some sight seeing and visit the township of 1770.
14th November Bundaberg to Great Sandy Straits - Fraser Island South Whitecliffs 62nm
We left Bundaberg after our brief stay with sight seeing tour up to the township of 1770. A very nice little seaside haven and I can see why so many people are attracted. Reminded me of Dunsborough in the south west of WA as a great summer holiday destination before all the development took place.
The ocean entrance to 1770
The news reports of the drug bust came thick and fast. It was the 5th largest haul in Australia's history (300kg worth an estimated $78m)
We threw the dock lines off at 7am and motored out of the Burnett River in a light NE which slowly strengthened all day to about 18 knots.
We sailed all the way in perfect conditions and we caught a very large Tuna which took over 20 minutes to get on board. It reeled off over 200 meters of line before I could slow it down. It was not hooked in the mouth but in the under belly which made it more difficult to reel in. I caught this on the game rod with light line so it was a lot of excitement reeling it in. I was hoping for a big Spanish Mackerel or a Spotted Mackerel but we got Tuna instead. Gave us a lot of sashimi which we shared with Splash.
A lot of sashimi!!
Tamara also cooked up a Linguini pasta with Tuna chunks in it for dinner which was nice but would have been better with white fish flesh.
We anchored at South Whitecliffs well up the Great Sandy Straits off Fraser Island as the sun was going down. The last 4 hours we were pushing against the outgoing tide which slowed our progress considerably.
It was an early night after the sashimi and pasta but we can sleep in tomorrow as we have to wait until midday before we can cross the shallows at high tide which is only 6nm from where we have anchored.
15th November Great Sandy Straits South Whitecliffs to Inskip point 28nm
We had a great sleep in and a lazy breakfast before we departed at 9.30am. The weather still fantastic with a forecast of 31 degrees and light northerly winds. We motored all the way through to Inskip Point and dropped the anchor.
It was an easy day and nothing really to write about.
We had an early dinner and watched some TV and went to bed early in preparation for our 5am bar crossing.
16th November Wide Bay Bar to Mooloolaba 58nm
We were woken at 5am with some loud shouts from Splash. I forgot to set an alarm and we slept in. I scrambled up stairs to see Splash motoring off towards the entrance.
We scrambled around and got the anchor up and put the kettle on for an early morning cuppa.
We were about 15 minutes behind them so no harm done.
We put our life jackets on as it is compulsory to have life jackets on for any bar crossings. It was very calm and it looked like they were not needed, but we have to wear them.
A very flat crossing of the Wide Bay Bar
It took an hour to clear the entrance and the bar and get into deep water when we settled down to some breakfast. The north east wind was light to start with but by about 10 am we were able to switch the motor off and sail. It was an extremely pleasant sail down the coast past Noosa. We saw a number of dolphins, turtles and a shark. We caught no fish despite it looking like a perfect day to catch one.
Double Island Point Light House
We arrived into the Mooloolaba Marina at 3pm and washed the boat down and had a gloriously long shower.
We will be here for 4 nights and will catch up with some friends from my Papua New Guinea days.
Our next leg will be from Mooloolaba to Sydney.
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