Thursday 11 August 2011

Hamilton Island to Cairns

9th Aug   Hamilton Island to Butterfly Bay

With Tamara on board and Graham still on the crew we left Hamilton Island to meet up with our travelling companion “Splash” with Peter and Christine Wilson on board. They had spent the last few days at Whitehaven beach and had made their way to Butterfly Bay where we were meeting them and staying the night before departing to Bait Reef.

We arrived at Butterfly Bay and all the moorings were taken so we had to pick up a mooring around the corner. That was fine and Graham and I had a snorkel off the back of the boat. At last the weather was warm and the water clarity had greatly improved. The fish life was better off the point and entrance to Butterfly bay and the water was warmer.

We had a nice quiet relaxed dinner and went to bed early.

10th Aug   Butterfly Bay to Bait Reef
Billabong on way to Bait Reef

At 7.30 we dropped the mooring and headed to Bait Reef. It was a spectacular day with no wind. The water was glassy and not a cloud in the sky and while we had to motor all the way to Bait Reef the conditions were just perfect. We had breakfast with the whales on the way.

I have never seen so many whales. The water was like glass and the sun was low on the horizon and when you looked east into the sun you saw smoke stack after smoke stack. I call the whales blowing the air out smoke stacks as it comes with a lot of mist that clearly identifies that it is a whale. We saw whales that were tail thrashing, wing waving, breaching, jumping and playing in the calm conditions. “Splash” had dolphins bow riding also. That is nature at its best.
Whale right on the edge of Bait Reef

We arrived at Bait Reef to find the marker to the entrance missing. It caused us a bit of drama but the water was so clear we could see our way in. Unfortunately there were no moorings when we first arrived but another yacht signalled and told us they were leaving so we picked up that mooring. “Splash” stayed outside until we could also get them a mooring. Just as they were entering a large whale decided to block their approach to the entrance and they had to abort and go around until it had cleared. Meanwhile a back packer boat dropped a load of snorkelers onto the Stepping Stones (a series of big coral bommies aptly named) that ran right on the edge of the reef. The same whale surfaced right next to them and they all got to see the whale clearly. There were a lot of screams from the girls.
Black Trevally

Black Trevally Maori Wrasse and Batfish
Graham and I got ready for a snorkel and before we could get in the water a big Black Trevally cruised past the back of the yacht. Next there were Batfish and a big Maori Wrasse. Out came the bread and I jumped in to feed them. The Maori Wrasse was so friendly that you could put bread in front of him and then you could pat him and stroke him. It was just like stroking a pet. The Batfish went berserk over the bread and the Black Trevally stayed around and picked up the pieces of bread that did not go down the right way. We were entertained for ages.
Fish Feeding at Bait Reef




Graham and I went for a snorkel over the Stepping Stones and were impressed with its fish life.

After lunch I went for a snorkel over the shallow reef and it was like being in an aquarium with all the myriads of colourful fish. Turtles were all over the reef.

Tamara does not snorkel and she swam off the back of the yacht only to be mobbed by the Maori Wrasse the Batfish and the Trevally.

Bait Reef is a conservation park where fishing is prohibited so the fish are fed and become so friendly.
How the rich live. Adele anchored off Bait Reef.

That afternoon we joined “Splash” for sundowners and it was truly a great sunset. Bait Reef is 17nm north of Hook Island and is the closest of the Barrier Reefs. At high tide none of the reef is visible above the water and it is eerie that yachts are moored in the middle of the ocean with no land around them. The only land that is visible is Hook and Hayman Island 17 miles in the distance.

It was a great experience and one I will never forget.

11th Aug   Bait Reef to Magnetic Island (Overnight)

How can a beautiful day one day turn to muck the next so quickly. We had a very uncomfortable night on the mooring. Billabong was pitching in the swell and rolling side on at times. The wind had strengthened from the NW and while not strong at only 15 knots the sea was very messy. The wind was building the waves and when they came over the edge of the reef they stood up steep and it caused us to be very uncomfortable. We had intended to do some more snorkeling the next day and hence left the dinghy in the water with the motor on. We now had no chance of getting the motor off or raising the dinghy. All other boats on moorings were vacating as soon as the sun was high enough to see the reef and the exit channel.

We were the last yacht to leave and had no option but to tow the dinghy with the motor on. We were hoping the seas would calm down but the forecast was not good. Wind came up to 20 knots and we sailed towards the coast hoping to make landfall and get some protection to lift the dinghy.
Glouster Island and anchored alongside Splash in East Side Bay at 3pm where we managed some protection and lifted the motor and the dinghy. The wind was dying and we stayed for 2 hours and had some dinner while waiting for the wind to calm.
Splash sailing with us

The forecast was for the wind to clock around to the west early evening then south west and through to the south east. It happened just as the forecast predicted.
The made it for a magnificent sail through the night along the coast with a full moon.
The seas flattened and the wind strengthened to 15 to 20 knots and Billabong was reaching with 2 sails at 8-9 knots on a moonlit sea.
Tamara and I did the watch until midnight and Graham took over. I woke at 5pm to take over from Graham but he was simply having too much fun. He wanted to keep going.  It was the best night sail he had ever had and the conditions were truly magical.
Our ETA into Magnetic Island was 12 noon but we arrived 10am.
Graham had done all the hard work and Tamara and I were well rested when we arrived at Nelly Bay Marina.
This is a good marina. Not large but pleasant. It was built for the resort and pens were sold off with the units. The prices have dropped and the usage is not where it should be for such a great location.
The only time the marina is full is Magnetic Island race week.
Nelly bay Marina Magnetic island

Billabong at Nelly Bay Marina

We will stay 2 nights before going to Townsville to visit my PNG friends from Port Moresby Trevor and Elizabeth Kerr. We have been invited to a BBQ on Sunday night so we look forward to that.
Bird of Paradise Flower

13th Aug   Magnetic Island.

We had a restful night sleep after a delightful dinner at an authentic Italian restaurant. It was one of the best seafood pizzas I have had. We also had salt and pepper calamari done the Italian way. They have a gelati bar so it was a full on gastronomical indulgent.
The day was spent doing the boat chores and a brief walk around.

14th  Aug   Magnetic Island To Townsville

After morning coffee and breakfast we left the Nelly Bay Marina and headed to Townsville.
We met Trevor and Liz on the dock and they drove us for a quick look around Townsville and onto the shops for restocking. Back to the boat for a quick shower after stowing the supplies and we were off to Trevor's and Elizabeth's for a wonderful meal. They went to a lot of trouble and we had a great night reminiscing the old PNG times and learning some valuable tips from them for when we venture further up the coast. Especially about reef hopping on the way back from Lizard Island.

Trevor and Elizabeth

It was a fantastic night and thank you Trevor and Elizabeth for your warm hospitality.


15th Aug    Townsville to Horseshoe Bay (Magnetic Island)

Rocks off Magnetic Island

It was another great night sleep in the sanctuary of a marina. They are the best sleeps and you do appreciate them if you have had sleepless nights at a windy anchorage. We had to leave the marina before the tide fell too far, so we departed at 11.30am for a short sail to Horseshoe Bay to join Whimaway and Splash who were anchored there. Graham made the sandwiches on the way and we had a beautiful sail. On arrival it was relaxation time, reading and a "Nanna Nap". Graham kept waking himself up with a few snorts in the cockpit while Tamara slept for a couple of hours.

At 5pm the crew of Splash, Whimaway and Billabong went into "Noodies on the  Beach" for a Margarita. Just a beautiful evening sipping Margaritas while the sun went down. If you buy a jug of Margarita you get a sombrero hat!!!
                                             Margaritas at Noodies on the Beach
We went back to Billabong for dinner of snapper which I am sad to say I did not catch. Never thought I would have to buy fish on this trip but we had so much meat lately I was craving for fish.

After dinner I put a line in the water and it was not too long before a big fish took the line for a run. I could not control it and the line snapped. A short while later it was on again and this time after a fight lasting 15-20 minutes I netted the fish. It was over a meter long. A big fat Salmon Catfish that would be close to 10kgs. Not knowing what it was we let it go. After identifying it in the fish book we find it was a 3 star eater. We could have fed all 3 yachts. they can grow to 185 centimeters and are very good to eat so the reports say.

We know better next time.

16th  Horseshoe Bay - Magnetic Island

Crew of Splash and Billabong on the Forts Walk

It was to be a day of exercise. We decided to go ashore for the Forts Walk. This walk takes us up to where the forts were built for the second world war. The Bay apparently housed up to 40 war ships during the war and the forts were built to protect them. A shot was never fired in anger from these fortresses.

The Command Post overlooking Cleveland bay

It was good exercise and we saw a number of Koalas on the way.
Koala's are very sleepy in the day

Mother and Baby

After the walk we undid all the good by having fish and chips on the beach.

The walk took most of the day and by 4pm it was time to go back to Noodies on the Beach for Margaritas at sundown.

17th Aug  Magnetic Island to Great Palm Island

Splash and Billabong weighed anchor at 8am and set off in a light southerly which turned south east during the morning. It was a magic sail to Great Palm Island and we were anchored in Casement bay by 2pm. After a snorkel along the reef we had sundowners with a magnificent sunset. They say you get the best sunsets in the Palm Islands

Sunset at Great Palm Island


18th Aug  Great Palm Island to Orpheus Island

After a very peaceful night sleep we had breakfast and a swim and before we new it was lunchtime.
After lunch I took the dinghy for a troll around the reef and caught 4 Stripey Perch for dinner.
We motored around to Hazard Bay off Orpheus Island and dropped anchor. On the way around Orpheus Island we spotted whales in very close to the island.

Whales close to Orpheus

We joined Splash for Sundowners and then cooked the fish on the BBQ.

Just a superb day.

19th Aug   Hazard Bay To Little Pioneer bay

We went to the beach after breakfast and did some hunting and gathering.
How do we get them down?


We got them. A big stick helps.

Graham and Neil husking coconuts

                                                                   Reward for effort
Enjoying a natural drink

There were a few coconut trees on the beach so we managed to get some green coconuts for their milk and some older coconuts for their meat. Graham managed to husk about 5 of the older coconuts. The meat is  very nice BBQ'd so we have to try that. After lunch we headed to Pioneer bay for the most northerly rendezvous of the RPAYC Coral Coast Cruise with Windsong, Splash, Whimaway and Dame Margot.
Drinking "Pussers Painkillers" at the northern most rendezvous on Windsong at Little Pioneer Bay, Orpheus Island.


It was a magnificent sunset where the cane fields had been burning and the red glow was spectacular.


This will be the last rendezvous that Billabong will attend as Splash and Billabong are heading north and the rest are going back south to Sydney. We gave Donna from Windsong a green coconut with a straw for the milk. Donna recommends young green coconut milk as a good tonic. It is full of minerals.




A good pair of Coconuts!!




20th Aug  Hazard Bay to Pioneer Bay

Pioneer bay is a beautiful bay but it is in a marine park and you cannot fish there. After breakfast we went for a walk up to the ridge of Orpheus Island and the views were spectacular. 
On the top of the ridge



On top of Orpheus!!

On the return we had a quick snorkel but there was an algae bloom and the water was not pleasant to swim in so we decided to return to Hazard Bay.
On the way back the lures were put in the water as we entered the fishing zone and before long we had a beautiful Spanish Mackerel. These are a  very nice fish to eat. Our fish book rates them 4 stars equal to Baramundi.  It was funny were discussing what we were going to have for dinner when the line took off.
After the catch was landed our discussion was solved. It was fish for dinner.
I filleted the fish and we had enough for 4 meals.
We invited Splash over for dinner and the invitation was gladly accepted.
A good catch. Spanish Mackerel.


In the afternoon we went around to Yanks Jetty which is part of the National Park and gathered some green coconuts. Peter from Splash brought his boat hook so we could get some low hanging coconuts. I pulled on a big bunch of young coconuts and down they came and bent his boat hook in the process.
But we had 20 plus coconuts.
Some of the coconuts we gathered for the delicious nutritious milk


We drank a few coconuts on the beach with our sundowners and it was a magnificent sunset.
Neil and Tamara watching the sun go down


What a great day hunting and gathering.

Back to the boat after sundowners on the beach and I cooked 5 big pieces of mackerel on the BBQ which were eaten with salad and a good white wine to wash it down.

One of our best days on the trip so far.
Yanks Jetty at Orpheus Island


21st Aug    Hazard Bay to Haycock Island  (Hinchinbrook Channel)

It was a very peaceful night and we slept in to 8.30am. We had a lazy morning and it was a glorious sunny day. The water clarity had improved quite a bit so we went for a snorkel and I took the hand spear to get some reef fish for the crab pots.

We had an early lunch and at 1pm we raised the anchor so that we could reach the entrance to the Hinchinbrook Channel at 3pm on the rising tide. We did not want to leave the Palm Islands just yet but the strong wind warning pushed our decision to leave. After a 3 hour sail  we arrived at the sugar loader which is 5.6kms long. It is the longest jetty of its kind in the world. You can see the scars on the side of the damage that cyclone Yassi did.
5.6km's of jetty

Cyclone Damage to the Sugar Loader

The lowest point of the channel was about 1.2m under the keel and it was not long before we were motoring past Lucinda on to Haycock island where we decided to anchor for the night. I baited the crab pots and went up the creek to lay them.
While having sundowners we were greeted by noisy music from a red yacht that had sailed into the anchorage and proceeded to have very loud boom boom music. Lucky it did not last long after dark but the occupants were clearly enjoying the music.

22nd Aug   Haycock Island to Gayundah Creek

I was up early on anticipation of a crab lunch but was soon disappointed that there was only one female mud crab and they are illegal to take so sadly had to put it back.
After breakfast we raised the anchor and headed along the channel to Gayundah Creek. It is rather a narrow creek but enough room for many yachts spread along the creek.
Peter from Splash and I reset the crab pots along the creek and we hope for the best.

Gayundah Creek is an amazing location in the Hinchinbrook Channel. The back drop is a large mountainous range on Hinchinbrook Island which is 1000 + meters. It towers over the creek and makes for spectacular viewing. We are surrounded by mangroves hence midgies, mosquitoes and sand flies are in abundance. Today they are not to bad as the wind is blowing but just before sundown you have to put lots of insect repellent on and burn coils.
Billabong in Gayundah Creek

In the afternoon I went for a fish trolling a line with a Barrumundi lure on it along the mangroves. They say you can catch Barrumundi here. Not long after I started I got a big bite and landed a beautiful estuary cod.
They rate 3 stars on the eating scale so that will be one to eat.
Just before dusk I checked the crab traps and we caught another estuary cod in the trap.
Also to our amazement 4 mud crabs as well!!
Yippee another good day of hunting and gathering.

I kept the fish alive in the holding buckets in the water and we kept the mud crabs in the bucket for lunch tomorrow to see if we could add to the catch.

Dinner had already been pre-arranged on Splash where we had roast chicken.

After a magnificent dinner it was time to retire. Exhausted again from the days activities.

23rd Aug  Gayundah Creek

Gayundah Creek is an amazing place to wake up to. The sun rising over the mountain tops and the water like glass. Very enjoyable to sit in the cockpit and have a cup of tea.

After breakfast Peter from Splash and I went out to clear the crab traps. Good effort. 4 mud crabs!!
Another good feast supplied by King Neptune



That's a big one


Tamara wants to eat it all

It was a good lunch with the ones from yesterday.
We went fishing after lunch and Peter caught a  Threadfin Salmon and two Millitary Pike. I caught a golden trevally which we filleted and froze for a green curry later on.
So for dinner we had a trio of fish with the two Estuary Cod we caught yesterday. They were all very tasty.
Splash in Gayundah Creek

24th Aug   Gayundah Creek to Cardwell to Haycock Island

We were up early to clear and retrieve the crab traps. Great another 2 muddies. We raised the anchor and left the creek to sail to Cardwell for some fresh supplies. We anchored about a mile off the jetty in 3 meters of water as it was low tide. It was a long dinghy ride into the jetty and we tied off on the jetty as the tide was too low and it is all mud. We walked up to the Pie van to have the famous Cardwell Pie. They were good but not that great.
You could see the devastation of Cardwell from the Cyclone. many people had left the town. We heard the school had 156 students before the cyclone and now on 76 students. Still there were many houses needing repairs. There were a lot of tradies carrying out repair work. They have a long way to go.

We walked back to the supermarket and got the supplies and filled up a few containers with water and headed back to the yacht. We then motored 16 nm back to Haycock Island in preparation for an early departure on the high tide to go back to Orpheus Island. The weather is going to be great for the next 5 days so we want to make the most of it. We love the Palm island group especially Orpheus Island. The sunsets are great when the conditions are good.

We arrived at 6.30pm and had a drink and ate the two muddies for entree. Tamara cooked a green curry and it was a quiet night.

25th Aug   Haycock Island to Hazard Bay

We were up early and set off to get through the channel entrance on a half tide. That would still give us enough water under the keel so long as the seas were not rough. Which they were not.
We had light winds and motor sailed all the way to Orpheus in time for lunch. Sadly no fish.
It was great to be back on the island and anchored in calm conditions.
Our favourite beach on Orpheus

In the afternoon we went around to Yanks Jetty for some serious hunting and gathering while Tamara sun baked on the beach and swam in the crystal clear waters.
Crystal clear water

Graham and I were after coconuts and fish.
We found some nice green coconuts to get for the milk and filled the boat with about 10 coconuts. Graham and I went for a snorkel and I took the hand spear. I managed a nice big sweet lip and we were able to eat that for dinner.
Sundowners were again on Yanks Jetty before another magnificent sunset.


26th Aug   Hazard Bay

We all had a great sleep in as the conditions were calm.
After breakfast it was a hard decision what to do.
 More hunting and gathering!!
Not much different from yesterday as the conditions were so great, we went around to Yanks Jetty and had a BBQ lunch on the BBQ that is situated at the camping site. BBQ sausages and cooked pineapple and cooked coconut.
Graham husked quite a few mature coconuts so we would have coconuts to take with us north after we leave the Palm Islands.
After lunch the tide had come in enough for a snorkel. Graham went exploring and I took the hand spear to get a fish for dinner.
Unfortunately it was not the best eating fish.

Another good catch with a brown emperor. I thought this was going to be a great eating fish but sadly it was a bit tough and not one of the best fish we had eaten. Generally any fish is good fresh. It was not too bad and probably better than most fish you get in a restaurant. We were just too spoilt with what we have had.

27th Aug   Hazard Bay
To day is going to be our last day at Hazard before we move North.
We decided on roast lamb for dinner so we took the meat out of the freezer. Peter and Chris on Splash have a Cobb so they said they would cook the lamb. OK by us.
The water was crystal clear again and Graham and I went for a snorkel on the point closer to the Orpheus Resort. The fish life was very good and coral among the best we had seen. I managed to spear a very nice big  Parrot Fish.
We ate that for lunch and I dropped Tamara and Graham around to Yanks Jetty. Tamara wanted to sit and sun bake while Graham went exploring.
I went fishing with Peter from Splash. We took separate dinghy's and trolled along the reef edge. I saw a large Spanish mackerel when snorkeling so we were hoping to catch something decent.
As luck would have it, when you have thawed out the lamb for dinner, Peter caught 2 magnificent coral trout.
Peter's great catch- Coral Trout.

I had no luck. I had to go back to the beach to pick Graham and Tamara up.
We dropped Tamara back to the boat and Graham and I went fishing. We bagged 4 stripey perch and a small coral trout that was under size.
The lamb was already cooking so the coral trout will have to be eaten tomorrow night. cannot believe we had to wait to eat these, but the lamb was priority now.
We all showered and went over to Splash for sundowners and roast lamb. Just magnificent.
I cannot remember the last poor dinner we had!!
The ocean was flat calm and we all slept very well after a few reds.

28th Aug.  Hazard Bay to Zoe bay to Goold Island

We were up at 6am for a 6.30 departure. Today was a big day. We needed to cover 40nm including a stopover at Zoe Bay, Hinchinbrook Island. There is a beautiful waterfall there which is worth the stop over. It is rare that cruising yachties get a chance to anchor in Zoe Bay because it is east facing and the prevailing winds are from the south east. Today it is flat calm and perfect for our plans.
Splash motoring in glassy conditions

Billabong 

On the way into Zoe bay we came across a mother whale and calf. We could see the little baby which was not much bigger than a dolphin. It was a fair distance so photos not worth publishing.
Also to our amazement were big mosquitoes. With no wind they were able to get miles out to sea. We killed a few in the cabin and they were big.
To day the rise and fall of the tide was 3 meters with low tide at 2.15pm. Hence the reason we had to go early. We anchored at 9.30am and we had to be back at the yachts by 11.30am. 2 hours to get ashore, walk the trail to the waterfall and back on to the yacht.
We anchored the dinghy 50 meters off shore in about half a meter of water. On arrival at the National Park camp site we could see the devastation that cyclone Yassi had caused. The whole camp site would have been under water with the storm surge. Trees broken and debris everywhere. The rangers had cleaned it up enough to get functional but a lot of work was still required.
It was a 15 minute walk through the rain forest to the base of the waterfall where there was a large rock pool.
Walk through the rain forest to the waterfall

It was another 10 minutes to the top of the water pool where there were some small rock pools for a dip. Graham and I climbed to the top and Tamara and Peter and Chris stayed at the base.
It was certainly stunning.
The waterfall at Zoe Bay.
Graham in the rock pool at the top of the waterfall with Zoe bay in the background

We had to move quickly back to the dinghy and on arrival the dinghy was high and dry. With wheels on the back of the dinghy for such an occasion we pulled it another 30 meters to the receding tide. Lucky it was firm sand.
Dinghy high and dry on the falling tide


Back to Billabong and we weighed anchor for the motor (still no wind)  to Goold Island which is on the northern side of Hinchinbrook Island.
We caught a nice spotted mackerel which was filleted and went into the freezer as we were having Coral Trout for dinner.
We anchored on the north west tip of Goold in very shallow water but enough not to get into trouble with the low tide.
At 5pm Splash came over for sundowners and I cooked the Coral Trout for everyone. It is certainly a prize fish and no wonder so sought after. Peter and Chris said it is the nicest fish they had ever eaten. I agree it is one of the best.
The anchorage was flat calm and we had another great nights sleep.

29th Aug    Goold Island to Dunk Island

After a good sleep in and a lazy start to the day we lifted the anchor at about 10am for the 12 nm run to Dunk Island. Our plan was to stop at Bedarra Island and have lunch and then move on to Dunk Island. The conditions were flat and a stay at Bedarra would have been ok but to see the devastation from cyclone Yassi we decided to continue on and get to Dunk Island and go for a walk.
The resort at Bedarra Island. Trees have been devastated and other houses destroyed.


It was a welcome diversion as we caught a very nice Spanish Mackerel on the diversion between Bedarra Island and Timana Island.
A good one!!

We arrived at Dunk at 1pm and had a quick lunch so we could go to shore and go for a walk. It was a devastating picture after the cyclone.
The Beach Kiosk

The last recorded weather report before the cyclone hit a few days later

What,s left of the jetty. So much sand has been washed off the beach. Before the cyclone they used to drive vehicles onto the jetty.

Tamara and I were here 6 years ago and we remembered Dunk as a beautiful Island paradise thick with vegetation.

Trees starting to grow back after being stripped bare.

The cyclone had devastated the vegetation with trees stripped bare. Coconut palms up rooted and the beach sand completely eroded and the resort swimming pool was full of sand.
Pool full of sand and coconut trees sprouting back to life.

The beach side villas were wrecked with the windows that were not broken, were so sand blasted that the windows were opaque. It is a sad and sorry state of disrepair. We heard on the news that the resorts on both Bedarra and Dunk Islands are not going to reopen. The operators have taken the insurance cheque and will now sell the resorts as is.
It will take a lot of money and a lot of effort to ever get the resort back to its former glory. It will take years for the vegetation to grow back.
We managed a walk to Muggy Muggy beach as the track has just been cleared. They are clearing the track to the look out on the hill and we hope to do that tomorrow but it is so sad to see the vegetation in this condition.
Graham sitting on a pile of fallen coconut palms on Muggy Muggy Beach

We got back to the boats in time for sundowners which we had on Mustang Sally with Mark and Di.
For dinner Graham cooked 3 rather large piece of Spanish Mackerel for us with roasted vegetables.
Another good dinner.
Conditions are still calm so it will be another good night sleep.
Tomorrow we will go to shore early and try the climb up to the lookout on top of Mt Kootaloo.

30th Aug  Dunk Island

What a great night sleep. Getting a good night sleep at island anchorages depends on the weather. If it is calm and no swell you sleep very well. On the other hand if the wind has been blowing for a few days you get swell around the island which is often side on to the yacht and it is uncomfortable with the roll of the yacht.
We went a shore early for the walk to the top of Mt Kootaloo. We walked around the back of the resort to get to the track and saw more devastation although there was evidence that the gardens were being cleaned up. The walking trail had recently been cleared by hand (chainsaws) but there were some really big trees across the track that required heavier machinery and they were in the process of doing just that as we climbed to the top.
Huge fallen trees were blocking the walking trail

Devastation of the beach side villas

Most of the track was sun exposed because the rain forest canopy had been blown away. As the track weaved up the hill, every now and then we came across a sheltered section of the track with the canopy still in tack. This is how we remembered it when we were here 5 years ago walking the same track.
Peter and Christine from Splash and Tamara and Graham at the lookout on Mt Kootaloo

The rain forest canopy has been completely blown away. The good news is the trees are shooting new leaves and in years to come the branches will cover the forest again.

It was disappointing to see the island in this condition but the walk was still rewarding.
They will grow back. But will the resort be sold and the villas be repaired?

We went back to Billabong and had some lunch, then we took the dinghy to a small island in the bay for some coral fosicking. The island beaches were made of coral that had been washed up in the cyclone. Natural disasters like cyclones cause a lot of damage to coral reefs. After a walk around the island it was back to the yachts for a swim and to lift the dinghy onto the foredeck ready for our 65nm journey to Fitzroy Island tomorrow. We invited Splash and Mustang Sally for sundowners had a fish pasta dinner and went to bed early at it was an early start in the morning.

31st Aug   Dunk island to Fitzroy Island

We woke at 5.30am for a 6am departure. Amazingly the wind had increased during the night and was blowing firmly. Just what we needed for our long day sail to Fitzroy Island. We raised the anchor, pulled the main sail up and set sail.
Leaving Dunk Island

Breakfast was on the run and the fishing lines were put out. With in 30 minutes we caught two spotted mackerel and let both go as it was too early to fillet fish on the back deck. A decision I would regret as we never caught another fish all day. Not that we needed any more but it would be good to have one, on our last night at sea.
We arrived at Fitzroy Island ahead of schedule as we had better wind than expected. It was low tide and the beach was made of broken coral so we decided against putting the dinghy in the water for a quick look ashore. Fitzroy Island will have to wait for another day.
We went for a swim off the back of the yacht, had our shower and a beer before a dinner of Pasta Marinara. This was to be our last night at sea. Tomorrow we would be back in civilization. It was not the best anchorage but comfortable enough to have a reasonable nights sleep.
The wind did not abate and stayed around 25 knots.

1st Sept   Fitzroy Island to Yorkeys Knob ( Cairns)

We had an easy morning and a lazy breakfast of bacon and eggs. 10am we left the anchorage under jib only.
It was still blowing 25 knots and with the jib we were sailing at 7-8 knots. Never wanting to let a chance go I put the lines out and before long we had a big one on the line. We rolled the jib up and we were still sailing at 4 knots under bare pole. Trying to get a decent fish in when still moving through the water is hard. We finally got it up to the back of the boat and dragged it on to the transom. It was a very nice Spanish Mackerel. It thrashed about a bit and we had to stand clear of its teeth. I managed to tie its tail up and hang it out the back until it died.
It took 3 hours to sail to Half Moon Bay Marina at Yorkeys Knob. The Marina is situated about 25 kms North of Cairns.
It is a great Marina run by the Boat Club with a good restaurant and bar.
My good friend from PNG days Bob Gray was there to meet us. He has his yacht at the marina and will travel in company to Lizard Island.
I filleted the fish and gave half to Splash. There were enough portions to feed 16 people.
Biggest and best so far.

It has been a good trip from the Whitsundays to Cairns.
We were extremely lucky with the weather.
We visited some great islands, saw loads of whales, turtles, dolphins, sharks and fish, watched some great sunsets, caught and ate loads of fish, gathered coconuts and swam in crystal clear waters. Sailing between destinations was easy and uneventful. No breakages to speak of and nothing went wrong. It does not get better than that. Graham enjoyed the experience and felt it is going to be hard to go back to reality.
Graham flies out to go home to Perth tomorrow and will no doubt start to experience reality on his 5 hour Jetstar trip home. Tamara and I will be in Cairns for 7 days completing maintenance and re provisioning the yacht before our next voyage to Lizard Island and back to Cairns. I have been wanting to sail to Lizard for many years and in 7 days Tamara and I will begin that journey in company with 12 other yachts including "Splash" that are cruising in company.