After 7 days in a marina I was itching to get back to sea. Our stay in Cairns was enjoyable as we hired a car and visited the Botanical Gardens, the Daintree and Cape Tribulation as well as Port Douglas. Unfortunately I lost my wallet in Port Douglas and no kind soul found it as they have not bothered to hand it in to the police station. Not a great feeling losing everything in it. We were hoping it would be handed in so I could at least get back the licences and membership cards. No such luck. Ironically the next day I found a policeman's wallet and got it back to him so I am hoping for good Karma.
Botanical Gardens
Daintree Rain Forest
Cape Tribulation "Where the rain forest meats the Reef"
Apart from that it was a great time and with the yacht fully provisioned we are ready to head south. Today we sailed out to Green Island and anchored on the outer reef for lunch and a snorkel. It was an OK snorkel. Lots of fish, coral trout and sweet lips. The highlight of the snorkel happenned on my return to the yacht. I was amongst the bait fish when a Giant Trevally came through menacing them and having a feed. He was not worried about me being there and continued to round up the bait fish and then charge through taking what he could on the way.
We sailed to Fitzroy Island where we anchored for the night. Our plan is to leave at 6am for Dunk Island and then onto Orpheus Island the next day. We should reach Hazard Bay on Friday night if the forecast is right. We plan to stay at least 5 days at Hazard Bay and get some relaxation after the hectic city life.
We are expecting NE winds tomorrow and Friday and that should assist us with a quick passage.
29th September Fitzroy Island to Dunk Island 62nm
The alarm went off at 5.30am and the kettle went on for an early morning cuppa. We did not have the best sleep. Twice now we have anchored at Fitzroy Island and the swell just rolls the yacht from side to side. Not a great place to stay although I am sure there is lots to do on the Island. They tell me Saturday night is party night there. We will just have to find out another time.
There was no wind and we motored off to the SE with a full main hoisted in anticipation that there will be some wind later. Eventually the wind picked up enough to put the jib out and motor sail. We had to maintain our 6 knot average to get to Dunk.
There were fish breaking the surface every where and I often altered course to steer through them but no hook ups. They were not tempted by our lures.
Sailing like this is magnificent although we are burning the fuel and clocking up hours on the engine.
After lunch we had a big strike on the lure and after a 10 minute battle the fish won and we lost. Not sure what it was but it threw the lure out.
It looked like we would be fish less for the day and then bingo we hit the jackpot about 5 miles from Dunk.
A magnificent Yellow Fin Tuna!!!
Yellow Fin Tuna!!!
These are a prize fish to eat.
We arrived at Dunk Island and anchored in 3meters of water at the low tide. After filleting the Tuna I swam some fillets across to Splash so they could enjoy the delights courteous of King Neptune. We do not put the dinghy in the water when we are staying at an Island for the night on passage. Peter and Christine yelled out how wonderful their sashimi was. We agreed when we had ours as the sun was setting on another beautiful day. The cane fires had been burning so made for a spectacular sunset.
Sashimi at sunset with a G & T
Sunsets can be spectacular when they burn the cane fields
For dinner we rolled a fillet in seasoning herbs and salt and grilled it rolling it over so it was cooked on the outside and rare in the middle. Just delightful.
That meal would have been very expensive in a top class restaurant, but I would prefer to eat at Restaurant Billabong any day.
30th September Dunk to Orpheus 45nm
With only 40 odd miles to travel there was not the rush to set off too early. After a cup of tea and breakfast we set off at 7.30am in quite a good SW wind. We had full sails up and reached past Beddarra Island at 7 knots in flat seas. This is champagne sailing but it was too early to crack a bottle. We were at the northern tip of Hinchinbrook Island when the wind died for a few hours and we motored until the NE wind came. The sails were filled and we reached along at 6.5 knots in flat seas with little swell. Again this champagne sailing.
We arrived at Orpheus with out a fish, with the wind up to 20 knots form the NE. After we anchored the wind swung to the north and the anchorage was not so pleasant. The wind driven waves curled around the headland and left us side on to the waves. We did not drink the champagne we had in the fridge.
Splash caught a spotted mackerel and we were invited over for dinner. We put the dinghy in the water and rowed over as it was too rough to put the out board motor on. Poor Chris was not happy about the rolling while cooking and nor were we.
As soon as dinner was over we went back to Billabong for a very rocky night. It was hard to sleep.
1st October Hazard Bay - Orpheus Island
Not one of our best nights sleep!!
At about 3am the wind died and the wind waves calmed so we at least had a sleep in until 8.30am to catch up on the lack of sleep during the night.
We woke to a gentle rocking and no wind. The water is clear and the sun is hot. It is bliss and we are back in paradise.
Hope it stays this way as we need to watch the Grand Final of the Greatest Game of all!!! We can pick up a television signal from Lucinda which is 10nm away and watch the AFL Grand Final between the Cats and the Pies.
This one had teeth like a crocodile
After breakfast i went for a fish along the reef trawling slow lures hoping to get the elusive coral trout. Managed a small one which was about 5cm under legal size so had to let it go. Caught a crocodilian long tom which was well over a meter long and decided to fillet that for the green curry tonight. The flesh is similar to garfish. These fish can grow to 1.5 meters. It certainly was fun to catch on a light line. We certainly have caught a variety of fish.After a swim and some lunch I went to Splash to watch the footy. It was a great game although I was surprised the way Collingwood faded in the last quarter. I thought it was going to be close to the end.
The Orpheus Island resort reopened today and it was beautifully lit up at night. A few guests arrived by helicopter and boat. Another exclusive resort that do not welcome yachties. At $1000 per day us PBO's cannot afford it anyway.
Chris and Peter came over for the long tom green curry. The flesh was firm and good tasting. Everyone was tired and it was not long before they left and the lights went out. Amazing what a few beers and watching the footy does to you. And all we did was sit and watch.
2nd October Hazard bay Orpheus Island.
Not much happened today. The wind was quite strong from the SSE initially and then moved to NE and calmed at dusk.
We had a quiet day on the yacht reading, swimming and just chilling out. I spent most of the day untangling fishing lines that be came tangled while trawling a few days earlier.
Watched the NRL grand final and saw Manly hold on for a good win.
Caught a couple of reef fish for dinner and it was an alcohol free day!! First one in a long while.
3rd October Hazard Bay Orpheus Island.
Checked the weather as I do first thing in the morning with a cup of tea. It is looking fantastic for us here. We will stay here at least 7 days before heading to Townsville when persistent northerly winds are forecast. Meanwhile we will have a good time relaxing and exploring and trying to catch that prized trout.
We went to Yanks Jetty just around the corner for the day. It was a lovely sunny day and just lazed on the beach and snorkelled.
Dauntless ( a Nordhaven 47) and their crew joined us on the beach for a lunch time BBQ. Unfortunately the Parks and Wildlife BBQ had ran out of gas so I went back to Billabong and got the spare gas bottle and soon we were eating well on the beach in the shade of tree.
Our picnic table
After a relaxing afternoon on the beach we returned to the boats for showers.
We went back to the jetty for 5pm drinks and gathered a number of green coconuts for the fresh milk to have with drinks. The coconuts are in plentiful supply and they are easy to get with the boat hook. Not sure how we will get them in the future when the trees get too big. I am not going to attempt to climb them.
It was back to the yacht for another great feed of fresh reef fish caught that day.
4th October Hazard Bay Orpheus
I woke early and decided to fish early for that Coral Trout. Morning conditions were beautiful with a warm gentle NE wind. Still no luck but managed a smallish Spanish Mackerel that would be good enough for 2 meals.
Another lazy day around at the beach and after lunch we had an afternoon nap.
It does not get more relaxing than this. It is going to be hard to get motivated to head south to Townsville.
I went to Splash for a beer as Tamara did not feel like drinks. We watched a big thunder storm develop over the mainland and it blocked the sun completely. It was the first time in a long while we did not have a decent sunset. Drinks were still good all the same.
5th October My Birthday!!!! Hazard Bay Orpheus
The anticipation was for a nice sunny day but we woke up to the rain falling on Billabong. I dont remember any forecast of rain in any of the forecasts!!! But here it was grey skies, moderate wind and RAIN!!
How could that be.
I fired up the computer and logged onto the Bureau of Meteorology and checked out the radar. Can you believe it the only rain picked up on the radar for 256km was right on Orpheus Island.
And on my birthday. What did I do to deserve that.
It was a good excuse to go back to bed and sleep in.
By the time we got up the rain had passed. It was welcome rain as it did wash a lot of the salt off.
The wind became weaker and weaker throughout the day but the clouds persisted and it was quite grey all day. Conditions were pleasant but there was no snorkelling because of a lack of sun.
I went fishing while Tamara cleaned the boat. (Just like it should be. Sharing the duties) I came back with 3 real nice fish. 2 Stripey Perch and a Red Throat Emperor.
We had lunch and I got my birthday present - A full body massage for one hour.
We had birthday drinks on Billabong at 4.30 and invited another yacht that had come into the bay called Meridian Passage. We have met them at Mackay and Cairns and they were to accompany us to Lizard Island but pulled out with the strong winds forecast.
After drinks Peter and Chris stayed on for a roast lamb dinner.
Birthday Cake by Special Delivery.
Chris cooked a beautiful carrot cake for desert.
A happy birthday boy!!
The night was very calm and can you believe it the stars came out after dark.
Tomorrow the weather will be better, although I cannot complain it was a great day and a great place to spend a birthday at Orpheus Island.
6th Oct Hazard Bay Orpheus Island
Not a lot happened today. It was a very relaxing warm sunny day. Meridian Passage stayed the day and joined Splash and us for a BBQ lunch on shore.I gathered some more young green coconuts for rum cocktails at sunset. Tried out some soft plastic lures and caught a nice Spangled Emperor which I let go as we have enough fish to eat.
After sunset we skipped the evening meal as we had enough at the late afternoon BBQ.
Tomorrow we will have to move to another destination as the forecast is for NW winds and Hazard bay will not be a comfortable anchorage in NW winds. We will most likely go to Onion Bay on the southern end of Great Palm Island. It is renown for its snorkelling and diving.
7th Oct Hazard Bay to Onion Bay Great Palm Island 12nm
The forecast of NW winds would make Hazard Bay an uncomfortable anchorage. The decision to move was made and our destination was Onion Bay off Great Palm Island. We weighed anchor with some difficulty. The anchor chain was severely wrapped around coral and it took a good half an hour of boat moving to get the anchor up. I suspected we were going to have issues as the chain was making coral crunching noises for the last few nights. It was obviously wrapped around a few coral bommies.
Leaving our favourite beach for the last time on this trip. Yanks Jetty Orpheus Island.
We motored SE to Great Palm Island with lines out. We had one strike but no hook up.
The wind was soft and the sun was glistening on the flat seas and we were surrounded by islands. It was a wonderful picture.
We had lunch on the way which Tamara prepared - fish wraps. Fish wraps consist of Stripey Perch fillets pan fried with pan fried egg, tomato and mayonnaise - all put into a rice wrap. Yum!!
We arrived at Onion Bay and dropped anchor in 14 meters of water. I took the dinghy and the fishing lines and went to explore the southern shores of Great Palm Island. The water clarity was superb and you could see great coral. Unfortunately I also saw a massive shark, far longer than my 2.6 meter dinghy, which has put me off snorkelling. I could not identify the shark but we have been told there are tiger sharks in the area.
I caught 7 good size Stripey Perch and many other fish type including a small Coral Trout on the lure. I kept the Stripey's and share them with Splash.
At 5 we went to the beach for drinks. There were obviously some form of previous settlement on this beach as we found a few tin humpy's completely demolished by the cyclone. Peter and I walked up the beach and found some beautifully preserved clam shells which Tamara took an immediate like to and they are destined for decoration of the house at Port Stephens. More cargo for the trip south. We have many pieces of coral and drift wood for decorations.
We will stay another day as the weather is perfect and we will make a serious assault on the Coral Trout tomorrow.
8th Oct Onion Bay Great Palm Island
What a fantastic anchorage. Water is crystal clear and it is flat calm. I was up early to go fishing and left Tamara in bed. I trawled along the outer reef which skirted the island. Caught a variety of fish including 10 Stripey Perch, about 12 Coral Trout all under size (bugger) , pike, long toms, rock cod and a shark mackerel about 5kgs. That was great fun on a light line and rod and reel.
I got back to the yacht at about 10.30am in time for chocolate cake that Tamara baked. Peter and Chris came over for morning tea.
It was very hot with not a lot of wind. Temp around 30 degrees. We swam a lot off the back of the yacht to keep cool. Peter took me for a snorkel along the fringing reef at low tide. It was truly magnificent and all the coral was pristine. Fish life was not as plentiful as I would have thought as the souther end of the island gets hammered by SE winds so I would have thought it would not be fished out. The population of Great Palm Island is 5000 people so I guess they do a lot of fishing. They all seem to have nice new aluminium boats with good motors.
After a bit of lunch Peter and I went for some bottom fishing but all we got was snag after snag on the coral. We do not have a reef anchor for the dinghy's and where the locals were fishing it is too deep. We gave up
as the wind was too strong and we were drifting too fast. We went trawling again and Peter and I caught 2 Stripey Perch each. That was enough. I gave mine to Peter as I could not be bothered filleting them.
It was time for drinks with the sun going down and I cooked spaghetti bolognese for the 4 of us.
9th Oct Great Palm Island to Townsville 34nm
It was time to say goodbye to the Palm Island Group. It was sad as with the good weather we were having you could spend weeks here exploring the different beaches and reefs.
Time to move on. We upped the anchor and motored off in very light winds. We pulled the main sail up any way in anticipation of the NE wind forecast.
After 2 hours the wind came in and we had a very pleasant sail. alongside Magnetic Island and into the Breakwater Marina in Townsville.
It is very hoyt at about 32 degrees and the marina quite smelly with the algal bloom blowing into the marina. They say you get used to it but I am not so sure.
We will be here for a couple of days to re fuel and provision and collect new credit cards etc. It is not a smart thing to loose a wallet.
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